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Travellers have long mystified the Skeleton Coast with
intriguing stories of shipwrecks, desolate dunes and beach roaming
carnivores. This harsh, uninhabited environment has been difficult
to reach by the ordinary tourist and few have had the opportunity to
visit this fascinating stretch of coast and desert. Even today the
area is only accessible to fly in tourists.
I was lucky enough to spend 4 days during December exploring just
a small section. Arriving on the dirt air strip near the village of
Purros, we were thrown straight into the swing of things as we drove
through miles of desert, past the odd oryx surviving on just a few
blades of grass and sniffing the sea breeze for precious drops of
water.
The sea fog, which hopefully settles on the land during the
night, provides the only moisture some of the animals and plants
survive off year round. The complex world of wildlife found along
the Skeleton Coast Park, one of the planets most inhospitable
places, is endlessly fascinating but forms just one of the
intriguing facets of the park.
Each day was occupied with a
full 10hrs of exploration - packed lunches, plenty of
water and giga bytes of storage for our digital images. We
explored roaring dunes, vast windswept plains, towering canyons,
clay castles, quicksand, salt pans and lichen fields.
If that wasn't enough we investigated seal colonies stretching
5km along the coast; circled by the odd brown hyena, jackal or the
exceedingly rare desert lion. Dotted here and there are the remains
of shipwrecks, sometimes used as a handy resting place by the
lurking predators.
We checked and found the desert elephant eagerly drinking from
the fresh water springs in the canyons along with springbok, oryx,
ostrich, wildcats and honey badgers. Finally we tore cardboard off
boxes and tried to sand board down the pristine sand dunes on our
stomachs. Giving up we loaded ourselves into the land rover and did
a few "wheelies" up and down the "stairway to heaven" which gave us
a fair adrenaline rush and had to relax over a lunch on the beach
whilst fishing for kabeljou.
Just a few camps are found in the region north of Mowe Bay and
only one camp holds a commanding position nestled on an exclusive
private concession of 16 400km stretching along the coastline right
to the Angolan border.
During my time in the area we never saw another vehicle,
fisherman or tourist. Just outside of the park we did come across a
wildlife photographer, the local Himba villagers from the town of
Purros and one delivery vehicle.
If you're looking for a truly remote wilderness experience in a
proper, traditional safari camp with highly experienced guides this
has to the place you check into next ... and hurry, please get
there before the rest of the world finds out how beautiful this
place really is and the prices go up even more or the camp turns
into a glossy hideaway for the famous.
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