The credit crunch is biting hard - everybody's lost interest in the frills! 

We’re going back to the old days of authentic safaris, done simply and smartly. 

The focus is back on the best guides, remote places away from the crowds with extraordinary wildlife. 

Destinations are varied from Zambia, Botswana, Namibia and through the rest of southern Africa; then further north to Tanzania, Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. 

Here’s a flavour of some of these “real” safaris:

• Take a lower Zambezi canoe safari over 10 days – “one of life’s great adventures” - $1145.  Add a bit of Zambian comfort plus R&R before or after.
• If you're adventurous, take a 5 day rafting expedition below Victoria Falls - $620.  Explore Botswana or Namibia beforehand.  Nambia's inexpensive, Botswana needn't cost a packet.
• Take a 4 day hike through the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater area as part of a longer safari. Get the timing right in the Serengeti and expect to be walking with the migration without a vehicle or other visitor in sight.  Join the Ngorongoro hike to visit the craters and pass Ol doinyo Lengai en route to Lake Natron.  From $3500 for 11 days.
• Take a bat safari in Zambia during November as millions of “straw-coloured fruit bats” converge on Kasanka National Park - one of Africa’s most amazing and unusual wildlife spectacles
• Get to Katavi and Mahale , Tanzania - seriously expensive logistics but a week of life that'll linger for years
• Join Zambia's largest home-grown tour operator, Robin Pope Safaris - do the circuit to include "safari and beach" at Pumulani (all internal flights free)
• Get the best of Andy Hogg's BushCampCompany in the Luangwa - unbeatable for family safaris  or small privately guided safaris in all of Africa this year
• Relax in Kenya - fine guides and hosts, best bush camp away from it all in the Mara - excellent if you're looking for Big Cats - $2585, 6 nights all inclusive.

bookmark "best in Africa"  or...contact us now for more info

...in East Africa

Recent scattered showers in the Serengeti have kept the migration in the south – best game in the Ndutu, Gol and Loliondo areas.  (where we're hiking in January, February and March 2010). 

Serengeti green season rains have been light and unless more falls before June it's going to be a tough dry season.  Those lucky enough to escape to the quieter recesses of the Serengeti and Gol Mountains in the meantime will have lots of game amidst carpets of grass, flowers and the best of the birdlife.

Beyond that we move into the western corridor "gamble" and by July we'll know what the weather's done and how the migration has responded...the season should have fallen back to a better known routine.  [...see our online notes on planning for a migration safari ]

With off-season showers in Kenya’s Mara the “Loita Migration” has settled in the northern parts of the reserve. 

Rekero and Kicheche guides have been having a busy old time.  Kicheche is near the end of the season and well away from the migration months yet “the plains are groaning with the weight of game around Mara Camp”.  Excellent rhino and leopard reports have come in – our most recent clients have extended their stay (again) – we suspect that camp crews are now very anxious to break down tents for a rest before the dry season starting July.

From one of the most rewarding safari spots in Africa - Katavi.  Anita quoted from Chada on Thursday:

"we saw a lovely leopard mother and cub  2 km from camp, elephants sleeping in camp every night and hippos grazing in camp at night...

....we have had wonderful rains again, the river is flowing strongly and all hippo and croc very happy with their lot in life...

....amazing birding and we had an avid bird group here and they got about 12 new lifers here at Katavi....it could be more...my memory...

... otherwise Chada has been performing with the lions oh and we had wilddog make a kill in front of the library tent one late afternoon, fortunately guests were in camp and saw the dogs and the kill"

...in southern Africa

Only Africans speak like this (a message from Namibia): "Let me confirm that this contrasting land of colours is more or less either green or red at the moment."

...furthermore, after 500mm of rain has fallen "guides are reporting some excellent big cat sightings as the local felines resort to following the gamedrive roads to keep their paws dry" ... as only cats do!

Elsewhere in southern Africa the Zambezi and Luangwa rivers are in full spate, many trees including the marulas are in full fruit, the rains keep rolling in, migrant birds are active through the region, every manner of wildlife is busy harvesting, the cyclone season is about to erupt before we quieten down for autumn.

...speak to us about the 2009 dry season - July to October

This mega event takes place in 8 host cities through South Africa between 11 June and 11 July 2010.  Ticket sales started last week. 

A wonderful safari opportunity for some, an absolute nightmare for others. 

Irrespective of your position here are some practical suggestions:

• If you’re visiting for the football and intending do a safari then book as far in advance as possible.  
• For cheapest deals stay in South Africa - book a package through the FIFA tour operator programme.
• It’s going to be high season so prices will be most expensive, flights full and the best camps available on a first come first served basis only.
• For the best value deals look beyond South Africa.  Easiest will be Victoria Falls, Livingstone or Lusaka and into Zambia, Botswana, Namibia, Malawi or even further afield into East Africa.
• If you’re a regular safari client not interested in the football then we strongly recommend that you avoid the June/July period in Southern Africa altogether.  Why not visit during the southern “green season” between January and May or join us towards the end of the dry season when gameviewing is traditionally at its best.
• Alternatively look for space in Namibia or visit Kenya, Tanzania or go looking for gorillas, chimps and other primates in Uganda or Rwanda.

...contact us for advice on safaris in June and July 2010

Vamizi Island is a honeymooner's pad off the Mozambican coast. 

Apparently there's a “fish whisperer” on the island. 

Guests recently broke World and African Fishing Records ... 

• World Records - Brassy Kingfish 28 lbs; Giant Kingfish 180 lbs 

• African Records - King Mackerel 91 lbs; Dogtooth Tuna 194 lbs; Wahoo 122 lbs

For divers Neptune’s Arm off Vamizi is a 30m vertical wall ... considered to be one of the Top Ten dive sights in the world (Tim Ecott, diving correspondent of The Guardian UK)

 ...planning a honeymoon or some sport on the African coast ?  

Our first Congo safari for the season returned early February.  Bryan Jackson (of Tafika and Chikoko) guided.  From Chris's notes: 

• Bai Houkou: 6 Gorillas photographed (1 silverback and 5 youngsters) There were another 7 in the thick bush nearby but not worth photographing, so 13 in total in the group. The 6 seen were very close and easy to photograph.
• Dzanga Bai:  over 80 Elephant, Sitatunga and Forest Buffalo.
  1 Silverback on side of road en route Dzanga to Mbeli Bai. 
• Mbeli Bai:  on first day 17 Gorilla in total in 3 groups, 10, 6 and 1 silverback. On second day 10 gorillas in total, 2 single females and a family of 8.

We're planning another Congo safari in November/December with 4 spaces available.  Dates not yet finalised (an expensive once in a lifetime trip) – enquire with Chris now  

John's November recce trip went through the Tanzanian craters stretching from Ngorongoro, Olmoti, Empakaai and past Ol Doinyo Lengai to Lake Natron on the Rift Valley floor. 

A walking trail with some vehicle backup and the last stretch using donkeys to carry water, food and gear.

From John's notes:

The hike itself included epic scenery with wonderful company.  It amounted to 4 days of thoroughly enjoyable exercise, brilliant weather and great conditions despite the dust, heat and rationed water. 

Fairly hard work with small space for the wicked and none for the lazy.  It was a good time for each of us to settle into comfortable rhythms and relax with our own thoughts for hours on end and then share some truly hysterical moments at the end of each day.  An outstanding hike by the best standards. 

We finished off at a little oasis on the edge of Lake Natron and celebrated with multiple showers, good food and buckets of beer.  This was all a bit premature…

Ol Doinyo Lengai

Known to the Maasai as “The Mountain of God” it had dominated our route from the practically deserted village of Nayobi to Acacia Camp down to the lake.

This is an active volcano with loose ash on baked rock that rises as a symmetrical cone up 1880m off the valley floor to its summit at just under 3000m.  It's truly imposing whenever in sight.

Ol Doinyo Lengai has been very active since early 2006 with a major eruption in September 2007 and others following through most of 2008. 

On arrival at Ngare Sero Camp we heard that a week before some climbers had done the summit.  Now a climb had always been a glimmer of hope and probably most unlikely but local guides were excited to take on the challenge so we decided to go for it at the very last moment.  At midnight 8 of us set off with 3 guides. 

The hike starts gently but before long you’re clambering up a very rough surface with swirling cold clouds and talc-like ash flying about.  Our guides soon realised that recent eruptions had obliterated the traditional ascent routes.  With a simple head torch you’re left with little choice.  You either continue upwards or hang out in the cold and descend after sunrise.  (A descent in the dark even in the best conditions is simply out of the question.)  The wiser in the group hunkered down and backed off taking in the cold night, a few crazies continued.

So for hours we scrambled upwards, through ash filled gullies and over solid ridges where the options left or right were absolutely impossible.  Often on all fours up to a loosely covered concrete apron nearer the summit.  The final ascent route became obvious once dawn broke.  We were well behind schedule at this point.

We found ourselves on a very exposed face where crumbling ash and a great ridge is marked by a notch in the skyline.  The last stretch through these “Pearly Gates” to the summit up a very narrow edge was dodgy but we wasted no time – we took a few photos on the summit, hyper-ventilated some more and turned around.

We’d been heading upwards for 6 hours.  Rarely looking backwards and consciously denying how risky this little jaunt had become.  Getting up was easy, getting down was like a nightmare by comparison.  Physically demanding up and more so down, the sun was starting to hammer us and with a strong respect for heights the going was mentally tough too.

13 hours after leaving the trailhead we were back at the vehicle - exhausted and very relieved.  We'd been unknowingly ill-prepared for this one.  We did this epic climb on snacks and a few litres of water each. In easy times Ol Doinyo Lengai had been treated as a moderate 6 hour hike and the slopes were well vegetated in those days.  

Would I do it again?  I’ll do that walk to Lake Natron anytime but clambering up and down that volcano isn't the happiest place for an acrophobe.  The answer...of course!

The lessons?  Very simple.  There're few places in the world where you can just go ahead and have a seriously good adventure.  Africa's one - just take responsibility for your own risks, count on your buddies and let them count on you too.  Keep on adventuring!

...pics from the Crater hike : more links on Ol Doinyo Lengai

Look out for articles on this particular trip in Getaway Magazine (South Africa), Travel Africa (UK)...very special thanks to Debbie Addison, Max, Onesmo and the rest of the WildFrontiers squad in Tanzania.

London had its deepest dusting of snow in 18 years at the beginning of the month. 

Six million people never got to work in the city on that particular Monday! 

Despite the weather it was a good turnout a few days later.  Lots of old friends and fresh talk about new spots and places to see.  

Chris and John presented their case on how to plan an African safari in the “Meet the Experts” theatre.  Our team of 5 came away croaking and exhausted. 

Thanks to those of you who joined us.  Look out for us at more public shows through the year. 

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... now which would you prefer?

...speak to us anytime you're looking for a real safari, a real adventure or both!!