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From Trish's notebook...
I've been back from Kenya just 2 days and I'm already missing
those big skies, the wood smoke, elephants and hugely welcoming
people. Our friends in Kenya are suffering greatly as a result of
the extensive and damaging media reports since the elections in
early January. I figured the obvious thing to do was to jump on a
plane at the earliest moment and check on the real situation for
myself. What could be better than physically being in the country.
I've also harboured a secret desire to experience the magnificent
Masai Mara plains without another vehicle or human in sight!
My journey included different geographic parts of Kenya from
north to south - Nairobi, Amboseli, Chyulu Hills, Laikipia,
Samburu and the Masai Mara with stays and visits to 23 camps and
hotels en route. I met and talked to so many people I'm hard pressed
to remember all the faces and names or the distances we covered. Not
once was there a hint of violence, unrest, damage to property
or self or a feeling the country was not completely back to
normal.
I over-nighted at the unique Giraffe
Manor in Nairobi and fed one of the giraffe at the front door with
horse cubes. From the moment this tall, handsome male flashed his
long, dark lashes at me I fell in love! I tried not to wash my
hand for some time afterwards to keep the warm, tickly, sensitive
sensation when he licked my hand; I still feel it as I
write!
Mike Rainy, the white Masai, showed us the marshes of Amboselli
and we were lucky to see two wildebeest gladiators toughing it out
in the dust. We enjoyed an open air breakfast in the early morning
light with Mt Kilimanjaro shining above us and could see global
warming hadn't melted the glacier yet!

The blood hounds of Ol Donyo Wuas in the Chyulu Hills deserve a
mention for the unique experience they provide visitors -
especially families with youngsters. Their favourite activity is
smelling an item of guest's clothing and then tracking him down when
he's gone off on a game drive. The rest of the family track with the
dogs or wait to be found on the vehicle to be lavished with big wet
doggy kisses. These dogs work hard assisting with protecting the
resident rhinos from poaching when there're no guests to amuse.
The most memorable experience was the visit to the "Singing
Wells" at Sarara. Sorry there're no pics because filming or
photography is NOT ALLOWED and you keep these
unique scenes only in your memory! The rights to the ancient wells
are owned by the local Samburu families. The wells are dug in the
sandy river bed and each day members of the family stand naked on
one another shoulders, hand drawing buckets of water from the depths
of the well whilst singing at the top of their voices and hand
watering thousands of well fed, glossy white and brown cattle.
Donkeys are allowed to drink second, then goats and lastly camels
who I guess can hold out longer! Each animal follows the sound of
his owners singing to find the right well to drink at; even the
calves recognise the sound of their own songs. At night, elephants
sneak in and pinch their share of the water without paying
the proper dues and tipping sand into the well which has to be dug
out again in the morning!
An amazing new safari we're
offering, "The Zambezi Film Safari", is hosted by BBC wildlife
cameraman Warren Samuels and Rob O Meara, independant film editor
and digital photographic reproduction guru. Both are highly
experienced at filming, Warren is the cameraman for the Big
Cat Diary cheetahs amongst other wildlife TV programmes.
If you're an amateur film maker, a pro or even if you'd just like to
watch how wildlife films are made, this is an ideal
opportunity to book up and prepare for and where better
than in the Mara where the filming is so rewarding.
Most of all I loved being in the heart of the Mara at
Rekero where we were treated to two of the best Masai guides
I've had the pleasure of spending time with. They drove us
across the grassy plains full of fat, well fed game - we
saw one other vehicle the whole day. They kindly laid on a
seriously impressive thunderstorm, sundowners with a pride of
lion at our feet and the company of the owners who
have a boundless sense of humor and love to play party games
after dinner. A traditional camp, it is so well managed there
is help waiting in the shadows to fill your bucket shower up if
you run out of water whilst still full of shampoo, (which of course
you don't admit to as it proves you weren't listening to your room
attendant when he told you about 20l of water).
I could go on because there is so much to tell but there's not
enough time or space. I'll end by urging you to think about visiting
Kenya for the first time or for a repeat visit because there'll
never be a better time to have the finest game viewing, perfect
hosts and tastiest food than right now, this year before everyone
flocks back in their hordes! We're very happy to share our recent
images with you or to chat over the phone, please just get in
contact with us.
Get a Kenyan update now and if you have
spare time later this year then consider Kenya’s “Great Escape” or
sample some safaris in Kenya …
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