The Kenyan Coast

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The Kenyan Coast - The major points of interest along the Kenyan coast are Mombasa, Malindi, Watamu and Lamu. Lamu offers some of the least developed coast, a peaceful tropical island with an exotic flavour, affording pristine white sand beaches lapped by the warm Indian Ocean.  In our view, a better taste of Swahili culture than you'll find on Zanzibar. The island resorts and coastal towns are a popular destination for those wanting a relaxing and revitalising break after a safari or climbing up Mt Kilimanjaro.

Nairobi, Amboseli, Rift Valley | The Mara | Coast | Laikipia and beyond

Some notes on the Lamu Archipelago

• Lamu Town, the Island and Archipelago, all of the same name, lie 2 degrees below the Equator along Kenya's coast. The archipelago is a chain of Islands separated from the mainland by a narrow channel bordered with dense mangrove forest and protected from the Indian Ocean by coral reefs and large sand dunes. Lamu, Pate and Manda are the main 3 islands closest to the Manda airstrip.

• The South-East Trade, the "Kusi" which blows from May to November is a strong gusty wind which brings the rains, rough water and mud from the Tana River.  [see our map of the Kenyan Coast] During this time most boat movement takes place along inshore channels.

• The North-East Trade, the "Kaskasi" blows from December to April. This summer wind brings calm, clear water and the fishing season. Occasionally there are strong winds, but storms are rare.

• The Archipelago has a history of more than 1000 years, dating back to the 9th Century.

• Lamu is one of the oldest Swahili towns still in existence. Although staunchly Islamic, the Swahili culture emerged from a mixture of Arab and Bantu blood.

• Kiwayu village to the north has long stretches of beach between the Kiunga Marine National Reserve, to the east, the Dodori and Boni Game Reserves to the west.  The marine reserve is known for dugong sightings.

• Mkonkoni is a small village opposite Kiwayu Island where beach sandals are gathered, reclaimed and sold as souvenirs.  This is the most northerly outpost of the small Bajuni tribe.

Some notes on Lamu Town

• A thousand years of trade, settlement and Islamic expansion have left ruins up and down the East African coast. In the 2nd century, the Greeks knew of this coast and called it Azania. Later, in the 9th and 10th centuries Arab and Persian traders and settlers called it Bilad-al-Zenj. Their small settlements grew into fiercely independent city-states which brought forth a distinct Arab-African culture called Swahili.

• The buildings in Lamu's historical core date from the 18th century, though both folklore and archaeological evidence point to an older settlement just south and possibly also north of today's town.

• In December 2001 Lamu Town became a world heritage site in order to protect the oldest inhabited settlement south of the Sahara.

• Lamu has resulted from a combination of trade and Islam, modified by the environment.

  • Trade provided wealth,

  • Islam the incentive for permanent settlements reflected in the requirement of Islamic canon law that Friday noon prayer be held in a permanently settled location.

  • the monsoon winds supplied the energy the ships needed and the building materials, coral and mangrove were available on the shores.

• The streets of Lamu are narrow, cool and quiet. Surprisingly intimate spaces enclosed by massive stone buildings whose thick coral rag walls give the town its distinct colour and texture.

• The many historical sites are proof of the area's long and rich history which, when combined with all the natural attraction of its tropical setting, make Lamu a charming place to visit.

• Any tour of Lamu is best begun at the Lamu Museum which provides an excellent introduction to the town and the region, both past and present. The exhibits include the material culture of the archipelago, ethnographic tableaux of neighbouring coastal people, as well as collection of maritime artefacts and model dhows.

• Lamu is a traditional Islamic community, with over 20 active mosques in the town and most women veiled in public. Visitors are welcome, but are asked to observe and respect local custom.

• The naturally protected harbour on its northeast side led to the founding of Lamu Town which became a centre of coastal commerce. Today, Lamu's economy is still dominated by maritime activities: shipping, fishing mangrove cutting and shipbuilding.

• The people of Lamu are devout followers of Islam and the town is a place of religious pilgrimage where Muslims from all over eastern Africa gather every year to celebrate Maulidi, the Prophet's birthday.

Some notes on Shela Village

• Situated on a quiet corner of Lamu Island, Shela Village is a tangle of narrow sandy lanes, tall stone houses, smaller thatched dwellings, mosques, ruins and a spacious square.

• At one edge of the village, a deserted beach stretches out for fourteen kilometres.

• There's a fair variety of accommodation in and around Shela Village but Peponi Hotel is such an institution on Lamu that if you don't stay there then at least visit for lunch!

• Peponi is the focus of the Shela social scene and you may sometimes find the place overrun with expats - still the best place on the planet for oysters and lime with glass of crisp white wine!

Safari combinations on the coast

Lamu breaks: ...typical 4 night extensions to the Lamu Archipelago include a taste of unspoiled Swahili culture in Shela village and Lamu town plus a choice of beach getaways on one of the islands, available year round except April and May and include return regional flights from Nairobi ... from $1290 to $2390 per person sharing

Places to stay on the Kenyan Coast

Nairobi, Amboseli, Rift Valley | The Mara | Coast | Laikipia and beyond